Step by step guide how to cut
and paint the AMD Athlon XP, Morgan, T-Bred,etc bridges:
If you've already looked at the AMD Athlon XP Processor
or at the XP painting guide,
you've noticed that the OPGA (Organic Pin Grid Array) CPU isn't a ceramic
CPU.
Cut the bridges:
Because of the softer ground it's much easier to cut these bridges
and unlike the older ceramic CPU's
you don't need to spend lot's of time on this modification.
Usually you can cut the bridges with a very sharp knife, but of course
it's also possible with a minidrill,
dremel or with a thin stone disc bit of such a minidrill.
About 0,5 - 1 mm is deep enough to cut a connected bridge and cut off
the contact between
the two golden points.
Here's a picture of the five original lasercut L1 bridges and both
lower connected L3 and L4 bridges:
Connect the bridges:
VERY IMPORTANT !!!
DON'T CONNECT THE BRIDGES WITH SILVER LEADING VARNISH WITHOUT ISOLATION
!!!
Unlike the older ceramic processors the new Athlon XP CPUs have a copper
plate below the bridges and
you would connect the bridges to ground if you "fill" silver
compound into this lasercut.
The consequences would be that the CPU multiplier would set to limited
values !!!
Method 1:
This easier and faster method is mentioned in our Forum
and doesn't need insulation of the lacercuts :-)
After you've cut and cleaned all necessary bridges carefully, you have
to take a wire with
lot's of thin wires / laces inside (e.g. cable of a fan).
Open this wire with a knife and take one of the small wires out of this
cable.
Now cut this thin wire into several about 4 mm short parts.
Then take a pair of tweezers and dip one side into conductive
silver compound, and hold this side
to either point of the bridge you'd like to connect to untill it's dryed
(drying time about 20-30 seconds).
Now put a little bit of silver compound to the other side of the wire,
bend this wire to make a small bridge
over the cut to the other point.
That's it !
But don't use longer wire parts to prevent contact with the heatsink !
If you've the multi you like to reach it's possible to insulate the wires
with varnish.
Method 2:
Insulate (only) the lasercut by "filling" it with ceramic
correction compound, silicon paste, etc.
Here i've filled the five L1 lasercuts with ceramic varnish compound:
After "filling" the cuts you can wipe off the rest with benzine
to get a plain surface.
If you've scrached into the surface while cutting the bridges insulate
the scratches, too.
Each scratch could be a ground !
Now it's time to connect the bridges.
A pencil doesn't work really good, because the lasercuts are too deep
:-(
Or you try to paint around the cut, but if you watch the bridges with
a magnifying glass you'll notice
that this couldn't be a really good way... *LOL*
Therefore i'll show you the better and more resistant way.
A conductive pen for electronic circuits is very expensive (about 15 Euro),
so go to a good car parts dealer and buy a "grid rear window defogger
repair kit" :-)
Here's a picture of the small repair Kit
bottle from a german dealer called A.T.U.
which costs about 9 Euro !!!
It's very important that you clean the bridge points very carefully to
get a good contact !
Now shake the bottle for a longer time to have enough silver particles
in the emulsion.
After this apply a small bridge between both points you'd like to connect
with the point of a needle
(nope, forget the big brush) and let it dry.
After the connection your bridge should look like this one:
And here's once again an example ! picture of the upper cut and insulated
L10 bridge and a connected
lower L10 bridge:
That's it !
And if you get a wrong multiplier after the "painting", just
start at the beginning with well cleaned bridges !
After some tries you'll get the necessary experiences.
I know what i'm talking about because i've painted all !!! multi settings
up to 18x of my interactive XP painting
guide ;-)
If you find an adhesive copper tape with a low resistance value
on the lower side there's no isolation necessary,
i know such a copper tape to correct pcb lines, but i didn't found a tape
which is conductive at the adhesive side.
Close all L1 bridges if you want to change the multiplier via BIOS
or Jumper.
Otherway leave all L1 connections open.
The multiplier settings by jumper or DIP-Switch doesn't work on several
boards,
because they don't "know" the newer multiplier IDs.
That's why i've created the new interactive XP painting guide ;-)
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